| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| JanieW |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 15:37:42
Or maybe its me
Steve set Fea's iv up with the AHS installed and decor..but the temp is not rising past 25.1.
I have the thermometer probe on top of the substrate, and under his hide..or should it be beside the hide and not under?
The ambient temp at the cool end is 29, and 4" up on a log its 81. |
| 17 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| JanieW |
Posted - 18/02/2012 : 17:04:48
I posted a few pics in off royal photographs :) Just need to drape ivy to hide a cable..and add one root when it arrives and all done lol |
| JanieW |
Posted - 18/02/2012 : 12:54:09
Hiya Richard, that'd be great :)
What I have found with the AHS is that the entire top of the viv is approx 32..and after returning Fea to the warm end..he searched a log then crossed the length to climb back to the top of that wretched plant lmao.
On the substrate beside the heater its 30, so the gradient will be on the floor..but Fea is just being a pain :) |
| richard v |
Posted - 18/02/2012 : 12:43:31
Hi janie,
All sounds cool, my temps are 33 ish by the ahs
in the middle I have an ir bulb for a little light little being the word,
The temp there is 27 ish the cool end is 25 drops a little at night to around 24.
My boa just shed the whole process took exactly two weeks
I will get the skin out later and get some pics of her and post for you.
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| JanieW |
Posted - 18/02/2012 : 10:22:52
I have been reading on the care of a Common Boa, and everywhere states that they do need light, and that a basking area of 33 can be achieved using a refector bulb. I am happy with ambient temperatures, but not satified with his hot spot, plus there is very little natural light in his viv.
I'll just leave it on during daylight hrs as they prefer a temp drop at night, and the AHS is enough for that.
LOL Steve managed to disentangle him from his foliage, and is now nesting, dozing between his neck and back of sofa. Once I get the light installled, i'll post a couple of pics of his new premises :) |
| JanieW |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 21:48:17
Will do :) and thankyou so much for your patience and help *hugs* |
| richard v |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 21:46:31
No probs janie, if you need any more help
let me know. |
| JanieW |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 21:27:22
Thanks Richard :)
I just went up and he was back on his branch stretching out toward me..I really wanted him down lol but he coiled round the trunk tightly and went back into his plant, and there he waill remain tonight less he braves it and finds his way down himself lol.
I don't know if he is a she..the guy I bought him from tried to probe but he tensed so failed :) but either was he's a sweetheart. |
| richard v |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 21:16:01
Hi janie,
Ok so if you wait until the light is on full so not flashing at all
then turn the dial really slightly and it will start flashing little quick pulses
Then shut the door watch it it should then start flashing longer
quicker pulses then go back onto a solid red light.
Turning the dial up should only take 30 seconds so really won't effect things that much.
the temps you have now are not that far off I'm sure he/she sorry can't remember, will be fine.
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| JanieW |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 20:58:49
Forgot to say we put him in..and typical he found a plant behind the branch and he's managed to coil around the stems tightly lol 30 degrees up there |
| JanieW |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 20:57:18
Alight, so now if I just leave it, it should come up to temperature set?
Steve says that by setting gradually by the pulse..surely when the doors are open, temp drops so back on full power again? |
| richard v |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 20:36:57
Hi janie,
Don't worry about using a hair dryer just let it warm up on it's own
using the method I mentioned earlier it takes a while. It has a cut off
On it so if the casing gets hotter than 70deg it cuts off then once it has cooled it will
start to reheat if you start using other appliances to heat it will give a false reading to the probe.
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| JanieW |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 19:45:41
LOL me too
I called Triple 8 as I do when I need advice, they are great guys..and he said they use these heaters for all of there larger snakes..he said the best heater available..but sheesh fiddly :P |
| n/a |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 19:41:21
Ah, I see ...umm, think I'll stick to bulbs. AHS are cool but sound a bit complicated ...
Not being a boa person, I honestly don't know whether those temps are ok for Fea, but there'll be someone knowledgeable along soon.
Good luck with the setup - hope problems are ironed out soon. |
| JanieW |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 19:32:20
I wish it were that easy Bats :( These heaters are set so that if run at full power for long, they cut off to reduce the chance of burning. So basically the harder the unit works, the less heat if given.
Its sitting at 25.6 atm..the probe under the hide, ambient is 29.8 and on top of the branch is 30
I think that is warm enough to introduce him to his home, what say you? |
| n/a |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 18:48:27
I know nothing about AHS, but if this was a bulb, I'd turn the stat dial way up as the numbers on the dial are nothing to go by, and then adjust from there once the temp rose. If that didn't work, I'd move the stat probe further towards the cold end to make the bulb work harder. |
| JanieW |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 18:09:53
Thanks Richard, but I don't get it. I placed a hair dryer in until the LED went out, turned the dial up one notch. Light came on, so I used the dryer til it went out. I left the dial as was, but the temp dropped so the light came back on, the temp isn't increasing and the AHS isn't holding. |
| richard v |
Posted - 17/02/2012 : 16:06:58
Hi janie,
If I remember you have the 500watt.
I had similar issues, can you remember the picture I posted
for you a couple of weeks ago it showed roughly the best place for the
probe and thermometer. It is a very time consuming process but here goes.
Once the probes are in the correct place use a small flat head screw driver and adjust the dial
Clockwise very slowly until the red light pulses very slowly, close the viv doors
the light should then start pulsing quicker, keep doing this until the right temp is acheived. It took me the best part of
A day. I will give you a brief description of what the lights indicate.
The led indicates power to the ceramic (not power on to the ahs)
Not lit means the sensor is above the set temp.
Lit means the stat is providing full power to the ceramic because the sensor temp is below the set temp.
I hope this helps.
Pulsing means the sensor is getting close to the set temp.The shorter the flashes the nearer it is.
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