| Author |
 Topic  |
|
STICKS
Yearling
United Kingdom
408 Posts |
 Posted - 04/11/2009 : 11:47:19
|
| HI THERE TO ALL I AM NEW TO FORUM AND HAVE HAD MY SNAKE ABOUT 7 MONTHS NOW NOT SURE WHAT SEX IT IS BUT SEEM HAPPY, EATS WELL AND LOVES A BATH.I HAD A STRANGE THING HAPPEN ON SAT I JUST PLACE THE FOOD IN THE VIV LIKE I DO EVERY WEEK AND IT STUCK AT FROM INSIDE THE VIV WITH THE GLASS CLOSED ANY IDEA'S.UP TILL THEN IT'S ALWAYS BEEN VERY CALM .?????? THANK EVERY ONE DAVE. |
|
|
bengy_s
Yearling
United Kingdom
252 Posts |
Posted - 04/11/2009 : 13:01:02
|
Hi Dave & welcome.
So you've had snakey about 7 months, how old is he/she? Are you confident you're feeding the right size prey? i.e. 10-15% of his/her weight or 1-1.5 X the width of his/her widest part of body.
It could be that if he/she is still growing quickly and you haven't moved up a size in prey (if needed) he/she was still hungry from last feed.
Also do you handle him/her regularly.... I assume so if you bath often, but sometimes it can be the obvious. Temperatures ok (mid 20*C for cool end 32*C for hot end? Humidity (50% is ideal)?
Pictures can help us to give advice also.
Welcome once again & i'm sure he/she will settle once we get to the cause!
Ben |
 R.I.P Chester |
 |
|
|
lee2308
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
2597 Posts |
Posted - 04/11/2009 : 14:49:52
|
| hi dave,is it a problem shedder?you should only need to bath them for that reason or if they have covered it's self in poo.Do you know if it's due to shed as this can make them defensive or may of just mistaken you for food as there was prey there. |
Members map-------Want to be on the map?
  |
|
|
|
Gingerpony
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
2663 Posts |
Posted - 04/11/2009 : 21:13:58
|
heya and welcome 
i agree with bengy......could he be hungry? |
Dumerils boas, BCO hybrids, Sinder Hypo boas, cornsnakes, ratsnakes, Day Geckos
|
|
|
|
Blackecho
Royal Python Admin
United Kingdom
11327 Posts |
Posted - 04/11/2009 : 21:25:42
|
| Perhaps it wants to strike feed rather than eating off the floor. |
 
|
|
|
|
STICKS
Yearling
United Kingdom
408 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2009 : 16:31:12
|
quote:
Originally posted by bengy_s
Hi Dave & welcome.
So you've had snakey about 7 months, how old is he/she? Are you confident you're feeding the right size prey? i.e. 10-15% of his/her weight or 1-1.5 X the width of his/her widest part of body.
It could be that if he/she is still growing quickly and you haven't moved up a size in prey (if needed) he/she was still hungry from last feed.
Also do you handle him/her regularly.... I assume so if you bath often, but sometimes it can be the obvious. Temperatures ok (mid 20*C for cool end 32*C for hot end? Humidity (50% is ideal)?
Pictures can help us to give advice also.
Welcome once again & i'm sure he/she will settle once we get to the cause!
Ben
Thanks for the welcome ben, sorry what i ment was the snake likes a bath what i should of said is it likes water it seem's to spend 60% of the time in the water bowl in the viv i dont bath it. and we are talking 0400 am sometimes when i leave for work. the times i have handled it seems calm and friendly its evern taken to putting its food in the water before eating ?? as we speak it's curled up on its log under the light, ref to the temp seems to be fine with what you suggested.i must say since reading every boby's tips i have up it's food size, it gets fed the food in a ceramic bowl and helps itself.am going to try and get some photo's.Thanks again dave. |
|
|
|
STICKS
Yearling
United Kingdom
408 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2009 : 18:30:08
|
quote:
Originally posted by Blackecho
Perhaps it wants to strike feed rather than eating off the floor.
HI THERE I PUT THE FOOD IN A CERAMIC BOWL PERHAPS I SHOULD INVEST IN A RUB AND FEED IN THAT ????.THANKS FOR THE HELP. |
|
|
|
bengy_s
Yearling
United Kingdom
252 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2009 : 18:48:04
|
Yes try feeding from a seperate tub/box using a pair of long tongs and offer it to him so he can strike feed. This mimics more closely what he would experience in the wild (strike & constrict) rather than eating off the floor. Also it will eventually seperate the association of food in his enclosure & less likely to be "vivarium defensive" and less likely to mistake you going in for a hold or water change as food.
Some people ask the question "if i feed in seperate tub, how do i get him back in viv as you can't hold a snake for two days after a feed". the answer to this is place the feeding box next to the viv and gently tilt the feeding box towards the enterance to the viv and he will go back in on his own accord. If he doesn't you can gently handle him back in. and obviously leave for 2 days before a "proper" hold so he can digest the prey.
As for bathing, esp in middle of the night, it is quite normal especially around shedding time. Also remember royals are nocturnal so its normal that they are active at night.
I think photos of him are the next step, also of his enclosure. i.e. are you using a bulb guard on the bulb and that it is controlled by a thermostat?
|
R.I.P Chester |
Edited by - bengy_s on 05/11/2009 18:49:18 |
|
|
|
STICKS
Yearling
United Kingdom
408 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2009 : 19:11:55
|
quote:
Originally posted by bengy_s
Yes try feeding from a seperate tub/box using a pair of long tongs and offer it to him so he can strike feed. This mimics more closely what he would experience in the wild (strike & constrict) rather than eating off the floor. Also it will eventually seperate the association of food in his enclosure & less likely to be "vivarium defensive" and less likely to mistake you going in for a hold or water change as food.
Some people ask the question "if i feed in seperate tub, how do i get him back in viv as you can't hold a snake for two days after a feed". the answer to this is place the feeding box next to the viv and gently tilt the feeding box towards the enterance to the viv and he will go back in on his own accord. If he doesn't you can gently handle him back in. and obviously leave for 2 days before a "proper" hold so he can digest the prey.
As for bathing, esp in middle of the night, it is quite normal especially around shedding time. Also remember royals are nocturnal so its normal that they are active at night.
I think photos of him are the next step, also of his enclosure. i.e. are you using a bulb guard on the bulb and that it is controlled by a thermostat?
HI THERE THANKS,REF THE GUARD SECOND HAND VIV THE GUARD FELL OF SO I AM GOING TO RE FIT AND I HAVE JUST GOT A THERMO THE LIGHT IS ON A TIMER I AM GOING TO SORT OUT SOME PICS AT THE WEEKEND.AM GOING TO BUY A GUARD WITH A HINGE. |
|
|
|
bengy_s
Yearling
United Kingdom
252 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2009 : 19:23:53
|
Ok its good its in hand. They really do need a guard as snakes do not feel heat the same way we do so if he wrapped around the bulb, by the time he realised he burned himself, the damage would be done. Also the thermostat is much more accurate to keep temps constant than a timer, so as you said you now have a stat, I would fit that now.
Hope this helps. Below is a link on to a thread on this site of a guy called Dave who makes and sells guards. They're £13 for normal guard & £15 for one which opens for access to change the bulb if it should go. Just express your interest on the thread and leave your email & he should mail you with price and how to pay.
http://www.theroyalpython.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=656&whichpage=9
|
R.I.P Chester |
|
|
|
STICKS
Yearling
United Kingdom
408 Posts |
Posted - 07/11/2009 : 16:23:22
|
quote:
Originally posted by bengy_s
Yes try feeding from a seperate tub/box using a pair of long tongs and offer it to him so he can strike feed. This mimics more closely what he would experience in the wild (strike & constrict) rather than eating off the floor. Also it will eventually seperate the association of food in his enclosure & less likely to be "vivarium defensive" and less likely to mistake you going in for a hold or water change as food.
Some people ask the question "if i feed in seperate tub, how do i get him back in viv as you can't hold a snake for two days after a feed". the answer to this is place the feeding box next to the viv and gently tilt the feeding box towards the enterance to the viv and he will go back in on his own accord. If he doesn't you can gently handle him back in. and obviously leave for 2 days before a "proper" hold so he can digest the prey.
As for bathing, esp in middle of the night, it is quite normal especially around shedding time. Also remember royals are nocturnal so its normal that they are active at night.
I think photos of him are the next step, also of his enclosure. i.e. are you using a bulb guard on the bulb and that it is controlled by a thermostat?
hi there have got a new rub today snake in the rub mice in there was not intersted i was worry'd after an hour rossi was gettng to cold
so i put it back in the viv . shoul i just try again it took an hour to get it out the viv because of the defence prop. thanks 4 your help.Dave. |
|
|
|
bengy_s
Yearling
United Kingdom
252 Posts |
Posted - 07/11/2009 : 19:45:21
|
How often do you hold him? Regular handling is important to have a tame snake, exercise and also to check him over for any potential problems or illnesses.
You said from the description you put that:
quote:
Originally posted by STICKS
[quote]
hi there have got a new rub today snake in the rub mice in there was not intersted...
Did you hold the mouse with a pair of tongs to allow your snake to strike feed? Also was the mouse warm? Snakes sense the heat of their prey so if it was cold he's less likely to be interested. Warm it up especially the head and hold it in a pair of tongs and wiggle it SLIGHTLY in front of the snake. Its important to use long tongs and at an angle to the top of the feeding tub as Royals haven't got the best aim! |
R.I.P Chester |
Edited by - bengy_s on 07/11/2009 19:52:06 |
|
|
|
STICKS
Yearling
United Kingdom
408 Posts |
Posted - 08/11/2009 : 07:13:16
|
quote:
Originally posted by bengy_s
How often do you hold him? Regular handling is important to have a tame snake, exercise and also to check him over for any potential problems or illnesses.
You said from the description you put that:
quote:
Originally posted by STICKS
[quote]
hi there have got a new rub today snake in the rub mice in there was not intersted...
Did you hold the mouse with a pair of tongs to allow your snake to strike feed? Also was the mouse warm? Snakes sense the heat of their prey so if it was cold he's less likely to be interested. Warm it up especially the head and hold it in a pair of tongs and wiggle it SLIGHTLY in front of the snake. Its important to use long tongs and at an angle to the top of the feeding tub as Royals haven't got the best aim!
Hi there i tryed the tongs nothing.the mice wore the same temp as normal but with all the waiting for the snake to settle it was very cold,I have been told that i/v had the snake to long and it's settled in it habit and will not take to change.????.thanks again dave. |
|
|
|
lee2308
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
2597 Posts |
Posted - 08/11/2009 : 13:19:14
|
| that could be the situation if they have been fed in the viv,try feeding in the viv with tongs and give the prey a wiggle but put a piece of paper dow first so no substrate gets stuck to it. |
Members map-------Want to be on the map?
|
|
|
|
STICKS
Yearling
United Kingdom
408 Posts |
Posted - 15/11/2009 : 12:02:32
|
quote:
Originally posted by bengy_s
Ok its good its in hand. They really do need a guard as snakes do not feel heat the same way we do so if he wrapped around the bulb, by the time he realised he burned himself, the damage would be done. Also the thermostat is much more accurate to keep temps constant than a timer, so as you said you now have a stat, I would fit that now.
Hope this helps. Below is a link on to a thread on this site of a guy called Dave who makes and sells guards. They're £13 for normal guard & £15 for one which opens for access to change the bulb if it should go. Just express your interest on the thread and leave your email & he should mail you with price and how to pay.
http://www.theroyalpython.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=656&whichpage=9
Hi there viv is all sorted guard in place and thermstat. it shed out this week and is in rub with some mice and a blanket over the top going to check in a min will let you now. thanks for all your help.. |
|
|
|
bengy_s
Yearling
United Kingdom
252 Posts |
Posted - 15/11/2009 : 21:45:35
|
| Cool as Lee said he is probably more used to feeding in the viv. Now he's shed he should eat if he's happy (he should be now everything in the viv is sorted). He was probably aware of his approaching shed and therefore didn't eat! Good luck! |
R.I.P Chester |
|
|
|
STICKS
Yearling
United Kingdom
408 Posts |
Posted - 17/11/2009 : 18:20:32
|
quote:
Originally posted by bengy_s
Cool as Lee said he is probably more used to feeding in the viv. Now he's shed he should eat if he's happy (he should be now everything in the viv is sorted). He was probably aware of his approaching shed and therefore didn't eat! Good luck!
Hi there,here we go viv's sorted tryed to feed on sat with three flufs inside a rub just pushed them around and smelling them gave (bones) an hour with them did not take any now, since i put him in the viv it's not come out of the drinking water 36hrs plus now fully emerst less the head sorry about the spelling but you get the picture. i would take a pic but the flash has gone. |
|
|
|
bengy_s
Yearling
United Kingdom
252 Posts |
Posted - 19/11/2009 : 00:46:09
|
Ok. It is normal for them to bathe before and after shedding. Are the temps ok? Try him again on his next feed INSIDE the viv to see & confirm or eliminate if its just a "territory" thing with him feeling & being used to just feeding in the viv. Its not a problem if you moniter him at all times so he doesn't swallow any substrate, its just that if the snake is young then its preferable to most to feed in seperate rub to eliminate substrate problem and also it reduces the snake's association with your hand being in the viv and food, ergo the snake being less "viv defensive".
Hope this helps.
Ben |
R.I.P Chester |
|
|
|
bengy_s
Yearling
United Kingdom
252 Posts |
Posted - 19/11/2009 : 00:47:59
|
| *EDIT* (I'm bad at English sometimes). I meant if you have hatchling its good to feed in a seperate feeding rub from the beginning, NOT just to feed them in a seperate rub when they're young. Sorry, lot on my mind at the moment. |
R.I.P Chester |
|
|
|
Blackecho
Royal Python Admin
United Kingdom
11327 Posts |
Posted - 19/11/2009 : 08:38:45
|
quote:
Originally posted by bengy_s
also it reduces the snake's association with your hand being in the viv and food, ergo the snake being less "viv defensive".
I will add that while a lot of people agree with this, I have always disagreed with it. Snakes hunt predominantly on smell, so unless you have just been handling rats and wiggle a finger in front of its face its highly unlikely that it will mistake you for food. Also, moving a snake into a separate container to feed and back into the viv whilst in feeding mode is much more likely to get you bitten in my opinion. Plus I don't really like moving my snakes after they have eaten. The part I do agree with is that it will eliminate any substrate issues, although you could do this in the viv too by using newspaper or kitchen towel as substrate while young.
Just my thoughts on the other side |
|
|
|
|
STICKS
Yearling
United Kingdom
408 Posts |
Posted - 19/11/2009 : 20:03:54
|
quote:
Originally posted by Blackecho
quote:
Originally posted by bengy_s
also it reduces the snake's association with your hand being in the viv and food, ergo the snake being less "viv defensive".
I will add that while a lot of people agree with this, I have always disagreed with it. Snakes hunt predominantly on smell, so unless you have just been handling rats and wiggle a finger in front of its face its highly unlikely that it will mistake you for food. Also, moving a snake into a separate container to feed and back into the viv whilst in feeding mode is much more likely to get you bitten in my opinion. Plus I don't really like moving my snakes after they have eaten. The part I do agree with is that it will eliminate any substrate issues, although you could do this in the viv too by using newspaper or kitchen towel as substrate while young.
Just my thoughts on the other side
Hi there thanks for your help,been in his drinking water/bath for a week now may just try the food in a ceramic dish in the viv and see if it takes rather that than it starve ? i have turned the thermo down to see if it will get out of the water that would be a start. I do have a rather livley corn in a viv above could that be a problem.
thanks again Dave. |
|
|
|
Topic |
|
hi
